Hanging Frames on Difficult Surfaces

Brick, concrete and tile

Hanging a picture on brick, concrete or tile is trickier than on plaster, but with the right tools and method it is straightforward. Brick needs a masonry bit and wall plugs. Concrete is harder still and needs a hammer drill. Tile needs patience, so that it does not crack.

Assess the surface

Before hanging a frame, look closely at what you are fixing to, and weigh the picture. The heavier the frame, the stronger the fixing must be.

Brick

Bricks vary. Soft old clay bricks drill easily. Hard engineering bricks and concrete blocks take much more effort. The mortar between the bricks is softer than either.

Concrete

Concrete is dense and hard, whether its surface is rough or polished smooth. An ordinary drill will make little impression on it.

Tile

Ceramic tiles are common and crack easily. Porcelain is much harder and needs a special bit. What matters as much is what lies behind the tile, whether plasterboard, plaster or masonry, because that is what actually holds the fixing.

Before drilling any wall, check for hidden pipes and cables with a detector. Do not drill directly above or below sockets and switches, or in line with taps and radiators.

Tools and materials

Drill and bits

• A hammer drill. It turns and hammers at once, which is what brick and concrete need. A mains-powered drill usually has more power than a cordless one.
• Masonry bits. Tipped with tungsten carbide, for brick, block and concrete.
• Tile bits. Spear-pointed tile bits for ceramic, and diamond-tipped bits for porcelain.

Match the size of the bit to the wall plug you are using. The packet will say which.

Fixings

• Wall plugs and screws. The plug expands in the hole as the screw is driven in, and grips the masonry. Plastic plugs suit most pictures. Metal expansion fixings are for very heavy items.
• Concrete screws. These cut their own thread in a pilot hole and need no plug.
• Adhesive hooks. A way to avoid drilling tiles for a light picture. They hold well on clean, glazed tiles, but are not for anything heavy.

Other supplies

• A spirit level and a tape measure.
• A pencil, and masking tape for marking.
• Safety glasses and a dust mask. Drilling masonry throws out grit and a lot of dust.
• A vacuum cleaner. Hold the nozzle under the drill to catch the dust as you go.

Plan before you drill

Measure and mark

Decide exactly where the picture is to go. Mark the fixing point lightly in pencil and check it with a spirit level, especially for a row of frames. On brick and tile, note where the mortar joints and grout lines fall.

A hole in masonry or tile is not easily moved or hidden, so measure twice.

Height and spacing

As a rule, hang pictures with the centre at eye level, 57 to 60 inches (145 to 152cm) from the floor. Keep the gaps between frames in a group consistent, at 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8cm).

How to do it

Brick

You can drill into the brick or into the mortar. A hole in mortar is easier to make and to fill later, and is fine for a light picture if the mortar is sound. For anything heavy, drill into the brick itself, well away from its edges, because brick holds a plug better than mortar does.

1. Mark the position.
2. Drill with a masonry bit of the size given for your wall plug, slightly deeper than the plug is long.
3. Clear the dust from the hole and tap the plug in until it is flush.
4. Drive in the screw, leaving enough of it standing out to take the cord or hanger.

Concrete

1. Mark the spot and check it with the level.
2. Drill with a hammer drill and a masonry bit. Withdraw the bit now and then to clear the dust.
3. Fit a wall plug, or use a concrete screw.
4. Drive in the screw and check that it is firm.

Tile

The first question is whether you need to drill at all. For a light picture, a good adhesive hook avoids the risk. If you do drill:

1. Stick masking tape over the spot and mark on it. The tape stops the bit skating across the glaze.
2. Switch the hammer action off. Drill slowly with a tile bit and light pressure until you are through the tile.
3. Change to the bit for the wall behind, and carry on to the full depth.
4. Push the wall plug in beyond the tile, so that it expands in the wall and not in the tile, where it would crack it.

Drilling through a grout line is gentler on the tiles, but the hole must still go into something solid behind.

Afterwards

Cleaning

Dust frames and the wall around them with a microfibre cloth. Do not use abrasive cleaners on brick or tile. A soft brush is useful for grout lines.

Checks and repairs

Check the fixings from time to time, and tighten or replace anything that has worked loose. If a plug no longer grips, move up to a larger plug, or make a new hole nearby and fill the old one with masonry filler. A cracked tile should be replaced, and the wall behind checked before you hang anything on it again.

Choosing frames for these walls

Texture

• Brick. A rough, uneven wall is set off by a smooth, substantial frame in wood or metal.
• Concrete. Its industrial look suits minimalist frames, thin metal or matt black, which do not compete with the surface.
• Tile. Tiled rooms are usually kitchens and bathrooms, so choose a frame that tolerates moisture, such as coated metal. Keep it simple, so that it does not fight with the pattern of the tiles.

Colour

• Brick. Deep brown or black stands out well against its earthy tones, as does a strongly contrasting colour.
• Concrete. A bold colour gives a striking contrast. White or grey keeps the look minimal.
• Tile. Neutral frames go with busy, colourful tiles. A brighter frame lifts plain ones.

EasyFrame offers a wide range of made-to-measure frames, and with long experience we can advise on the right frame for your artwork. Call us on 01234 856 501 or email sales@easyframe.co.uk. We are always happy to talk, whether or not you want to buy.